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#3350533 - 01/02/09 09:42 AM Front Wheel Stud DIY
AX-NY'06Si Offline
Jr Member


Registered: 09/19/06
Posts: 621
Loc: Southern NY State
Previously Posted - Relocated for Archive

Front wheel stud replacement.

Like most Honda’s the 06+ Si’s hub and wheel bearing are pressed into the steering knuckle. This makes it very inconvenient to replace wheel studs, since the back of the hub is shrouded partially by the knuckle and entirely by the dust shield. To do the job as Honda would, you would need to remove the knuckle and hub assembly, take it to a machine shop to have the hub pressed out of the knuckle, change the broken/stripped studs and then press the hub back onto the knuckle. If you have front camber you would also need an alignment. Here is a cheat to accomplish the same task for a fraction of the time and money.

Items you will need:

Torque wrench
Properly sized socket, and/or adapter or key to fit your lugs
22 mm socket
Smaller socket driver
Dremel tool with grinding attachment, or other grinding/cutting tool
Coat hanger or plastic cuff
Phillips type screw driver
Tin snips
File
Replacement studs (one or two more than needed)
Replacement lug nuts (one or two more than needed)
5-10 pound hammer
Jack stands
Pliers

Tools to have on hand:
C-clamp or brake piston depressor tool.

Procedure:

1. Jack up the corner of the vehicle with the broken/stripped studs and support with jack stands. Brace rear wheels with chocks, bricks, rocks, etc. Set parking brake and put car in gear. Although this fix could be accomplished without jack stands, I STRONGLY recommend them here as you will be hitting your vehicle with a 5-10 pound hammer.

2. Remove lug nuts, remove wheel and put aside.

3. Remove caliper flange bolts with 22 mm socket. You will probably need to “break” the bolts with your torque wrench or breaker bar, and then loosen them the rest of the way with the smaller socket driver. The bolts are shown below (I took the picture after I was done which is why the wheel is on):



4. Hang caliper assembly out of the way from coil springs with coat hanger or plastic cuff. It may be easier to hang if you take the pads off.



5. Remove brake disk retaining screw. Note that this screw is usually tight and the Phillips head rounds easily. Use a properly sized Phillips screwdriver and place plenty of pressure on the screw as you are turning it to avoid rounding. If it is stubborn, soak with a penetrating lubricant being careful not to get lube on swept surface of disk (if you do, clean off with brake cleaner). Alternatively, I have been told that a manual impact wrench tool makes short work of these screws.



6. Remove disk and set aside. You should now be looking at the hub and the broken/stripped studs should be accessible. A broken stud is probably short enough to just be hammered out the back of the hub. If stripped or broken at a longer point, cut with the dremel and a cut-off disk attachment. Then just use the sledge (and punch if necessary) to hammer out the broken/stripped stud. If you don’t have a punch, you can use one of your extra new studs.

7. At this point you will notice that you don’t have enough clearance to get your brand-new shiny stud into the hub. It is too long to clear the dust shield and the head is too wide to clear the knuckle.

8. Using tin snips, cut a tab in the dust shield approximately half way between the caliper flange mounting holes. By cutting in this position, the caliper mounting flange and caliper assembly should provide some dust shielding. You need to make the slit wide enough to pass the entire stud through. The tab must go all the way down to the knuckle. Remove the tab and file any sharp edges.



9. Grind the edge off of the head of the new studs you will be installing using the dremel tool and grinding attachment. You want to grind a straight edge into the head, ALMOST down to the shaft of the stud. You need to leave a little head all around to provide even pressure on the stud when you torque your lugs. Someone has told me that you can buy “cheater” studs with the stud heads already ground. You also want to chamfer the straight edge on the shaft side, so that it will better slide over surfaces when you hammer it in. It is tough to keep hold of the stud when grinding. You may want to insert the stud into one of your extra lugs to get a better hold of it. You can then clamp the lug/stud to a table top. I have heard that if you place the studs in the freezer overnight, that this will help them go in easier. If you want to try this make sure you grind the studs the day before. The first picture below is my first grind showing the chamfered edge. I ended up grinding it some more to reach the depth of cut in the second pic.




10. Take the car out of gear and rotate the hub so that the empty stud hole in the hub is aligned with the tab in the dust shield. Pass the stud through the tab with its flattened side closest to the knuckle, into the stud hole and tap a few times to firmly set it. Reposition the hub so that the stud will clear the dust shield on both sides. Place the car back in gear.

11. Begin hammering the stud into the hole. With a 5-10 pound sledge, you should not be hitting the crap out of the stud, but using a moderate amount of force. As the head of the stud passes beyond the dust shield, use one of the extra new studs as a punch to hammer the stud all the way into the hole. You may want to hold the “punch” with pliers to avoid pinching a finger. You will find that the stud may catch on the knuckle. If it does, you may not have ground the straight edge deep enough. You can remove it and regrind it. If you are confident you have ground it enough, it just takes a little more force at this point to get it through.



12. Once you have gotten your new stud in, make sure the car is in gear and replace the brake rotor. You will notice that the threads of the new stud may be a little worn where they were hammered through the hole. Put a new lug nut on the stud and tighten to 150 foot pounds. This will set the lug into the hub and re-thread the bolt.



13. Once you are through you will want to take the car out of gear and rotate the hub to repeat the process for each of your broken/stripped studs

14. Replace brake disk retaining screw.

15. Reinstall caliper. You may have to depress the pad and piston a little (with c-clamp or brake tool) to get the caliper back on. You may have trouble aligning the flange mounting holes. If so, try pressing the caliper so it sits flush onto the disk, place the bolt into one of the flange holes, then lift the caliper off the disk by about a millimeter or two, while holding the mounting bolt in the flange hole to search for the hole in the knuckle. I don't know the torque setting for these bolts but usually tighten it hard with a six inch long socket driver. I doubt you could overtorque it with a small driver.



16. Replace wheel and tighten lugs. Lower car and torque all lugs to 150 foot pounds. Test drive the car for 15 minutes or so. Retorque the lugs to 150 foot pounds. Then loosen and torque to 90 foot pounds. For the next few days, you will want to torque your lugs to 90 foot-pounds a few times a day to make sure the new studs have properly set.

17. Have a cold beer and relax… you’ve just saved yourself a couple hundred bucks.
_________________________
'06 NBP Si w/ OEM fogs
'06 Mazda 3S GT

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#3355568 - 01/04/09 03:12 AM Re: Front Wheel Stud DIY [Re: AX-NY'06Si]
Design Moderator Offline
Post Master Supreme


Registered: 12/11/02
Posts: 11401
Loc: The OC
Thanks AX-NY'06Si - great DIY. Master link updated.
_________________________
09 CWP MS3
01 Echo 5MT
00 EBP Si - Sold - Pics
89 Camaro - Sold
CSI. What's your diversion?

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#9163428 - 10/19/17 10:33 AM Re: Front Wheel Stud DIY [Re: Design]
Desy Offline
Newbie


Registered: 10/19/17
Posts: 10
For a very long time I was looking for information on this topic. Thanks to all!
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