#9312389 - 04/30/18 12:59 PM
Re: now we have car detail, how about a thread for lawn detail?
[Re: LNXGUY]
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zaius
Post Master Sr
Registered: 04/30/05
Posts: 8744
Loc: Toronto
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Sooo... pre emergents? Any good ones out there recommended? Other than typical boxstore products?
I want to kill eeeds early this year for a change lol i think it's too late for pre emergents now. i see dandelions leaves popping up everywhere. FFFFFFFF Nothing up here yet, I need to get that 2,4D down soon before my backyard turns into dandelion heaven like it did last year, lol.
i think for 2,4d to work, you’ll need some of the weeds to sprout. it needs the leaves for it to stick on.
_________________________
2003 dc5 typeS.
looks stock.
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#9312393 - 04/30/18 01:00 PM
Re: now we have car detail, how about a thread for lawn detail?
[Re: c2k]
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zaius
Post Master Sr
Registered: 04/30/05
Posts: 8744
Loc: Toronto
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What's 2,4D you guys keep talking about?
weed poison that doesn’t hurt your grass... but the liberals banned it for residential use. you’ll need to go to the states to pick up... or buy online if you can
_________________________
2003 dc5 typeS.
looks stock.
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#9312649 - 04/30/18 06:03 PM
Re: now we have car detail, how about a thread for lawn detail?
[Re: Senor Eduardo_82]
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c2k
Post Master Supreme
Registered: 05/21/00
Posts: 19317
Loc: Wiesloch-Walldorf, Germany
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Someone please contact Larry Page. It appears Google is down.  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2,4-Dichlorophenoxyacetic_acid
If you see Larry, please tell him that I miss euphoric.
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Who cares
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#9315798 - 05/05/18 03:06 AM
Re: now we have car detail, how about a thread for lawn detail?
[Re: TYJelly]
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SiRice
Post Master Jr
Registered: 04/07/00
Posts: 1534
Loc: Markham
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The window for pre emergents has passed, it needs to go down before soil temperatures reach 55F. Up here in Stouffville this year that was on April 21st. At 55 the seeds have already germinated and are actively rooting.
This map shows the approximate go time to lay it down, yellow is early, green is ideal orange is past. http://www.gddtracker.net/?model=7&offset=0 Instead of relying on this it's best to measure yourself with a soil thermometer like this one: https://www.amazon.ca/Luster-Leaf-Prod-I...L70_&dpSrc=srch
If you put it down now you're just wasting money. Corn Gluten Meal (CGM) is a really expensive application, $30/1000 sq ft!
Edited by SiRice (05/05/18 03:10 AM)
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#9316271 - 05/06/18 03:38 PM
Re: now we have car detail, how about a thread for lawn detail?
[Re: Wildout]
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zaius
Post Master Sr
Registered: 04/30/05
Posts: 8744
Loc: Toronto
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#9316450 - 05/06/18 09:16 PM
Re: now we have car detail, how about a thread for lawn detail?
[Re: Screamin' Type-R]
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LNXGUY
Tougher than Logan Roy
Post Master Supreme
Registered: 08/06/00
Posts: 107959
Loc: Barrie, Ont,
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I put down 2,4d under the cover of dark tonight, lol! Give it another spot blast in a few days.
_________________________
-Bill The GN would OWN you, your children and your children's children. Left foot, right foot, just keep moving!!! -Jeffrey P. Murphy 
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#9320384 - 05/11/18 04:22 PM
Re: now we have car detail, how about a thread for lawn detail?
[Re: LNXGUY]
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spd-dmn
Post Master
Registered: 11/24/04
Posts: 2271
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So is there any chance we can have a summary of the steps needed, in order, to get some sweet-ass results like zaius and SiRice? I feel like there is an over-abundance of information and misinformation out there, it's tough to get my head wrapped around all of it.
Here are the steps I sort of have in my head but hoping the pros can chime in!
For new sod that was just put in 8 months ago, to help it grow even bettar:
1. Overseed --> for good results, use good soil on top of existing grass, drop seeds throughout the entire area, make sure to press seeds into soil to get good contact. Water every day for 7-10 days?
2. Fertilize
3. Peat moss? When and where should this be used??
^ is that even the right order? Or fertilize first, then overseed? How long to wait in between each step?
Any other important steps?
For old established grass that is thin (or in my case, was originally put down as creeping bentgrass because the owners were retards) or has bare patches or is weedy...
1. Tear up all bare spots/ all crappy/thin/not-nice areas
2. Use good soil and spread over the areas above
3. Seed and ensure good contact
4. Water every day for 10-14 days
5. Fertilize at some point? Peat moss at some point?
Any further hints/corrections/suggestions would be awesome!
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#9320766 - 05/13/18 01:15 AM
Re: now we have car detail, how about a thread for lawn detail?
[Re: spd-dmn]
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SiRice
Post Master Jr
Registered: 04/07/00
Posts: 1534
Loc: Markham
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So is there any chance we can have a summary of the steps needed, in order, to get some sweet-ass results like zaius and SiRice? I feel like there is an over-abundance of information and misinformation out there, it's tough to get my head wrapped around all of it.
Here are the steps I sort of have in my head but hoping the pros can chime in!
For new sod that was just put in 8 months ago, to help it grow even bettar:
1. Overseed --> for good results, use good soil on top of existing grass, drop seeds throughout the entire area, make sure to press seeds into soil to get good contact. Water every day for 7-10 days?
2. Fertilize
3. Peat moss? When and where should this be used??
^ is that even the right order? Or fertilize first, then overseed? How long to wait in between each step?
Any other important steps?
For old established grass that is thin (or in my case, was originally put down as creeping bentgrass because the owners were retards) or has bare patches or is weedy...
1. Tear up all bare spots/ all crappy/thin/not-nice areas
2. Use good soil and spread over the areas above
3. Seed and ensure good contact
4. Water every day for 10-14 days
5. Fertilize at some point? Peat moss at some point?
Any further hints/corrections/suggestions would be awesome!
Grass has two growing seasons, one in spring and the other late summer (last week of August to mid-October) The late summer growing period is better because there is less competition during this time as weeds typically grow in the spring. Because of this seeding in the second period is more preferable than in the spring but if you have no grass you're better doing something than waiting lol!
If you decide to seed make sure you fertilize with starter fertilizer. Starter fertilizer is always labeled as such. The numbers on the bag should be very close, so equal parts of Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potassium.
Peat moss is used to cover large or bare newly seeded areas. Without it seed can be easily swept away by rains or eaten by birds. If you're simply over seeding your lawn to make it thicker and there are no large bare spots, peat moss is not required. If you have a patio umbrella that left a bare spot you need to regrow, make sure you cover the seed with peat moss to keep the seeds wet and protected. A side advantage is you won't need to press the seed down, covering it in peat moss effectively accomplishes the same thing. Make sure the layer of peat moss isn't too thick otherwise it won't work. Look for a light covering approx. 1cm or even less.
Lastly water every day and you will see results in a week if you have tall fescue in your seed mix but don't stop there. Kentucky Blue grass (KBG) typically takes 28 days for the seed to germinate meaning you will need to keep watering for mixes with KBG for 28 days before you even see them sprout!
A month after growth make sure you hit it again with another dose of regular fertilizer (the stuff that's pretty much purely Nitrogen).
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#9320899 - 05/13/18 08:03 PM
Re: now we have car detail, how about a thread for lawn detail?
[Re: SiRice]
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spd-dmn
Post Master
Registered: 11/24/04
Posts: 2271
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Wow awesome thank you for the detailed responses. Definitely clears up a few questions. I will show you guys what im dealing with.. might ask a few more follow ups lol.
So the peat moss is nothin to do with nutrients but more a mechanical "holder" to keep seeds put.. good to know.
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#9321088 - 05/14/18 09:25 AM
Re: now we have car detail, how about a thread for lawn detail?
[Re: spd-dmn]
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LNXGUY
Tougher than Logan Roy
Post Master Supreme
Registered: 08/06/00
Posts: 107959
Loc: Barrie, Ont,
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I am going to Round-Up my entire front lawn and install patio stones, zero maintenance 
Fucking lawn is a disaster.
_________________________
-Bill The GN would OWN you, your children and your children's children. Left foot, right foot, just keep moving!!! -Jeffrey P. Murphy
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#9321459 - 05/14/18 05:03 PM
Re: now we have car detail, how about a thread for lawn detail?
[Re: LNXGUY]
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spd-dmn
Post Master
Registered: 11/24/04
Posts: 2271
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Here are the in progress shots of the front (from last year to now)
Before
During
After
New sod is looking half decent but under the tree it always gets killed because I think the tree is sucking up all the water, and theres no good soil depth because of all the roots. So that always is always light/bare, along with a coupe other small bare patches.
I already cut and dethatched, and now to keep it going I am planning to overseed using KBG and top soil mixed together.
Which fertilizer should I use for overseeding on an existing lawn? In my shed I have Magic Carpet 25-5-10 slow release and I also have an 18-18-18 instant action available. One day hoping I will get to the Milorganite level of LCN-ness.
Normally my understanding is the first spring fertilizer application should be the 25-5-10, and then the 18-18-18 in summer and fall.
But if there is new seed in the mix, does that still apply?
Am I ok to put new seed down and then put in the Magic Carpet immediately after?
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#9321910 - 05/15/18 10:59 AM
Re: now we have car detail, how about a thread for lawn detail?
[Re: spd-dmn]
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DooMer_WI
Post Master Supreme
Registered: 02/06/01
Posts: 15209
Loc: Milwaukee, WI, USA
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As a recap from last year:
- Area in question is good sun for April and May, and then when the trees get leaves, pretty much dense shade.
- We removed a swingset, picked up all mulch, put down new dirt, seeded. Came up quite nice.
- Around August/September, I noticed a nasty problem that I posted about in this thread:
An entirely different section of lawn pulled up like it had no roots; no dirt came up with it...didn't see any signs of grubs. Was suggested here that it was probably water saturation that caused the roots to lift out of the soil. Rake all affected grass until I got to grass that didn't pull up, and then seed the entire area. It came up pretty good... A little spotty, but figured, continue the project this Spring.
- Fast forward to this Spring. All areas seeded are much more spotty, down to the dirt. My hope was to overseed and re-seed the spots.
My mistake(s): I applied Scotts Lawn Food w/ Halts, not realizing Crabgrass preventers also prevent all grass from germinating. Here's the thing, I also did this last spring before I did my first seeding project!!! Is this why I'm having so many issues?
I've read that if I break the soil down at least 4" in the areas I want to seed, and add some new soil, I can technically still seed right now. Should I attempt that? Or just suck it up and wait until August when it will be gone?
Getting sick of this shit, but I won't give up 
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#9323378 - 05/17/18 09:55 AM
Re: now we have car detail, how about a thread for lawn detail?
[Re: spd-dmn]
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SiRice
Post Master Jr
Registered: 04/07/00
Posts: 1534
Loc: Markham
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Here are the in progress shots of the front (from last year to now)
New sod is looking half decent but under the tree it always gets killed because I think the tree is sucking up all the water, and theres no good soil depth because of all the roots. So that always is always light/bare, along with a coupe other small bare patches.
I already cut and dethatched, and now to keep it going I am planning to overseed using KBG and top soil mixed together.
Which fertilizer should I use for overseeding on an existing lawn? In my shed I have Magic Carpet 25-5-10 slow release and I also have an 18-18-18 instant action available. One day hoping I will get to the Milorganite level of LCN-ness.
Normally my understanding is the first spring fertilizer application should be the 25-5-10, and then the 18-18-18 in summer and fall.
But if there is new seed in the mix, does that still apply?
Am I ok to put new seed down and then put in the Magic Carpet immediately after?
The 25-5-10 is actually more a fall fertilizer, the last application you want to put down in late October early November. This kind of fertilizer typically encourages root growth. 18-18-18 "instant action is a starter fertilizer, you can tell because the nutrients are balanced. You will want to use this fertilizer after seeding. Think of it this way, starter fertilizer for starting seeds (makes sense right?).
Measure in sq ft how big your lawn is so I can let you know how many lbs of fertilizer you need for your lawn.
The grass under the tree is dying because of competition. To get grass to grow under there you will need to:
a) Trim the tree so more sunlight can reach the ground.
b) Ensure fallen leaves are removed again to let the grass get sunlight. There will be natural competition for nutrients but based on the picture it looks like the grass that thinned out matches the size of the tree canopy indicating the grass was shaded out.
You are right, peat moss is a holder/protector, it doesn't provide nutrients.
It probably wasn't necessary to resod but hey, the results are faster that way right lol?
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#9324184 - 05/18/18 07:50 AM
Re: now we have car detail, how about a thread for lawn detail?
[Re: SiRice]
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spd-dmn
Post Master
Registered: 11/24/04
Posts: 2271
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Thanks for the tips. So all the things that say use high N in the spring, I'm guessing that is specifically for an already established lawn? This is why I get confused lol.
I have about 450 sq ft there in the front, irregular shape tho. 330 of it is a rectangle and the remainder is kind of a triangle/tapered shape.
Resodding was needed because not only was it thin, but most of it was creeping bentgrass, with a little mix in of overseeded patches of rye/fescue/kbg.
Trying to get rid of creeping bentgrass is a fuckn nightmare. Previous owner thought he owned a golf course or some shit. What a pain in the ass.
Now the new sod is 100% KBG and I got the seed, also 100% KBG, from the same sod farm. Much nicer and more uniform look imo.
I will keep an eye on the tree. I think the grass gets at least 3 hours of sun, as my place is eastern exposure -- so when the sun tilts around to the south, that area gets decent light until about 3 or 4pm.
I will trim the tree and keep an eye out. I think it might be the roots of the tree sucking up all the water in the area. The tree roots are right up against the soil, which also prolly doesnt help the grass's own root development. =/
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#9324520 - 05/18/18 12:47 PM
Re: now we have car detail, how about a thread for lawn detail?
[Re: spd-dmn]
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SiRice
Post Master Jr
Registered: 04/07/00
Posts: 1534
Loc: Markham
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I personally believe in using the high N fertilizer for all other feedings except for the first feed, the feed for new seed and for the last feed. All the rest use the standard high N stuff.
For the 18-18-18 fert you mentioned you’ll want to apply 1.8lbs to your front yard.
It’s all about being passive aggressive (time to cut the lawn again):
Post cut 
Edited by SiRice (05/24/18 08:14 AM)
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#9330872 - 05/29/18 08:08 AM
Re: now we have car detail, how about a thread for lawn detail?
[Re: SiRice]
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furball
Post Master Sr
Registered: 09/24/03
Posts: 9548
Loc: Toronto, ON
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All along the sidewalk side, the grass is all FUCKED... Guessing damage from salt or some other... how to fix? (Some of it likely my fault for being LAZY and not raking it, i.e. clippings.)
Edited by furball (05/29/18 08:09 AM)
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#9330925 - 05/29/18 09:44 AM
Re: now we have car detail, how about a thread for lawn detail?
[Re: markw]
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LNXGUY
Tougher than Logan Roy
Post Master Supreme
Registered: 08/06/00
Posts: 107959
Loc: Barrie, Ont,
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I'd use a spade and cut all that brown grass out. Make it look super sharp.
_________________________
-Bill The GN would OWN you, your children and your children's children. Left foot, right foot, just keep moving!!! -Jeffrey P. Murphy
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#9331123 - 05/29/18 12:47 PM
Re: now we have car detail, how about a thread for lawn detail?
[Re: LNXGUY]
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Big Tasty
Post Master Supreme
Registered: 02/10/02
Posts: 20003
Loc: Toronto
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Friday evening I was out pulling weeds in the front yard. Spent a good two hours pulling up every yellow head by the root and felt like I did a good job with a nice green lawn...until Sat morning when I look out to see a bunch more danilions popped up over night.
I mean really, how the hell can it grow that fast in less than 24h. It's not like I missed them the day before. So Sat I went out again, pulled the new weeds and mowed the lawn. Wife sees and opportunity for free time so she sends the kids out to play. All good until they come up with a cup full of the dandelion fluffy seeds and drops/blows them on the grass 
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#9331199 - 05/29/18 01:26 PM
Re: now we have car detail, how about a thread for lawn detail?
[Re: Big Tasty]
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furball
Post Master Sr
Registered: 09/24/03
Posts: 9548
Loc: Toronto, ON
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For dandelions, every day that I head out and see a head (yellow), I'll rip it off, and let it dry on the sidewalk -- the rest of it I can pull out once/wk.
Lately I'm finding it's better to pull just the head, leaving the stem, so I know that bitch is still there.
Fuck, this is what occupies time when you're getting older? Fuuuuuu :wtf 
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#9331279 - 05/29/18 02:09 PM
Re: now we have car detail, how about a thread for lawn detail?
[Re: zaius]
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titty sprinkles
Post Master Supreme
Registered: 08/22/05
Posts: 17366
Loc: Toronto,Ontario
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thanks speed demon! i was too cheap to sod so i actually just learnt from what roger does here https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=GOgBQHzR4pkthis is what i did: 0. pull out weeds first 1. mow lawn lower 2. rake rake rake (or dethatch) 3. mix grass seed and triple mix in wheelbarrow 4. spread it everywhere off your shovel by hand 5. throw down more grass seeds with spreaders or by hand 6. spread fertilizer afterwards 7. water and pray daily for 2 weeks i found that overseeding in september was what really gave me more growth. oh and if you can, use starter fertilizer on those barespots. in the front it's still patchy at spots... would rather have it thicker still. 
damn nice RSX, i miss mine.
oh and nice grass lol
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2019 TLX Aspec
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#9331520 - 05/29/18 06:01 PM
Re: now we have car detail, how about a thread for lawn detail?
[Re: SiRice]
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spd-dmn
Post Master
Registered: 11/24/04
Posts: 2271
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For the 18-18-18 fert you mentioned you’ll want to apply 1.8lbs to your front yard.
Followed this advice. Just curious, how did you come up with that calc? Do you start with a set, desired N per 1000 sq ft and go from there?
If I did 1.8 lbs on 450 sq ft, with 18% N, does that means I just put down 0.3 lbs of N?
Which is equivalent to 0.7 lbs / 1000 sq ft?
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#9331925 - 05/30/18 10:14 AM
Re: now we have car detail, how about a thread for lawn detail?
[Re: furball]
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SiRice
Post Master Jr
Registered: 04/07/00
Posts: 1534
Loc: Markham
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The edge will always suffer, salt plays a small part but it’s actually not the main reason you’re seeing this. The primary issue is the concrete/pavement beside the grass. The edge is essentially a micro environment, as the days get hotter the concrete/asphalt creates a very inhospitable environment to the grass bordering the driveway. It’s also likely some of the grass has grown over the concrete but being the soil is so shallow there again makes it tough for the grass to continue to grow.
The solution is to edge your driveway/walkway/sidewalk with a line trimmer to create some separation. It also makes the edge look slick!
Edging
If you notice my walkway it has been edged hence the grass looking green the full way.
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#9332376 - 05/30/18 07:41 PM
Re: now we have car detail, how about a thread for lawn detail?
[Re: SiRice]
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porschetr
Post Master Supreme
Registered: 05/15/01
Posts: 23393
Loc: WBridge
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#9332406 - 05/30/18 08:40 PM
Re: now we have car detail, how about a thread for lawn detail?
[Re: porschetr]
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The Postman
A-List Member also The Man
Post Master Sr
Registered: 02/13/02
Posts: 5105
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What was the magical seed that Risky recommended way back?
ecoseed?
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