Registered: 07/15/05
Posts: 44
Loc: W.C. All over the world.
Still strong numbers for a b16 w stage 1's, congratulations dude. I bet that thing rips pretty hard. What do you have your rev limiter set at?
_________________________
"You have to face death and survive to feel more alive." -Canibus
R.I.P: 2000 NBP SI: Turbonetics T3/T04E 309whp, 213lb/ft@15psi
Registered: 12/21/99
Posts: 3151
Loc: Lomita, California. USA
it is possible to go to big on a header.. exhaust velocity can slow down if the pipes are too big for the motor. But it just could be that you need a bit more work to take advantage of the larger diamter header.
I've always liked my old DC header (4-2-1). it offers very good "all around" performance, and doesn't sacrifice low end like some big collector 4-1 headers do. Its a very good daily driver header.
I also had a jdm ITR 4-1 header I put on my last car (B18C1), and the losses below 5000 rpm were very noticable. top end gains were pretty good though, so its a trade off. For a DD, I'd much rather have a DC 4-2-1 header, as accelleration was much better through the midrange (and cruising on the freeway too).
And on the dynojet, a catco high flow cat showed a loss of ~4 horsepower through a 2.25" exhaust, so it wasn't that much.
but in the end, each car is a bit different, so it can take a while to figure out exactly which combination works best for your setup.
The TQ curve isn't as crazy as it looks. Shawn's dynapack scales things differently then most mustangs, or dynos. The scale is very tight. Change in 1-2 ft.lbs looks huge, even though it isn't. If you widen it out the RPM range out (X axis) to match your typical sheet it would flatten.
_________________________
186 whp - Church Automotive (Dynapack) 189 whp - Zero Factory (Bosch)
no, I dont have enough CR or displacement to run bigger cams. I plan to eventually swap in a b18c5 block, then I'll be looking for bigger cams. Probably s2 pro1's.
_________________________
2000 EBP Si 181.5whp, 119wtq- All Motor B16
its not bad, but not great either. The aem itr intake is what i used. its 3" in diameter & had to be cut & stuff to fit. Lot of work. Normal b-series intakes are 2.75. The j's would probably be similar in #'s to those.
_________________________
2000 EBP Si 181.5whp, 119wtq- All Motor B16
what happens is the intake kicks straight right once it goes into the fener well. obviously there is no room there on a civic to fit a filter. so first I cut it at the end where it kicked out right.
though that would be all. hooked it up & droped it into the hole into the fender well. but then i was left with no room to put the filter cuz the pipe was on top of the fender lining.
so then I took the part I had cut & cut it a little shorter cuz it was still kind of long. this left me with a peice that made a nice 90degree bend. so i bought another aem 3" connector & connected that peice to my intake piping in the fender well. I positioned it so the bend put it facing strainght foward towards the front of the bumper. that gave me room to fit the air filter so that it wasn't touching anything.
sorry no pics. but if u want to do this all u have to do is buy the part & look at it & u'll get the idea of what needs to be done. just read this again to help u out maybe. sawz-all & a file are ur friends for this. oh & a drill cuz u need to drill a hole for the intake air temp sensor that si's have pluged into the intake.
_________________________
2000 EBP Si 181.5whp, 119wtq- All Motor B16