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So my Mini has been parked since April 2017. Last time I started it it was May or June of 2017. I went to go start it in Dec to move it to storage and it wouldn't start. Any suggestions how to diagnose this? I really don't want to tow it do the dealer for a diagnostic without at least trying to troubleshoot it for myself. Back story: - Parked car in storage Oct 2016 all was well. - Took car out of storage April 2017 - Immediately after 2017 removal car would intermittently shift hard. As if there was no hydraulic assistance. - Me working full time (and doing 230kms a day to go to work) + studying for CPA = zero time for a pleasure car so it just sat. - June 2017 I had some spare time and changed the slave cylinder. Same problem so fuck the shit of it. Insurance cancelled, cover put on, batter tender connected, done with it for this year. - Dec 2017 I go to move it back to storage.....doesn't start. FML I just leave it covered. I am done w/cpa for the most part, as well as no longer travel 230k to work as I am now working DT. Which means more free time so I want to put the car back on the road asap. -> I haven't tried to start it yet but looking for ideas as to why it wouldn't start. Symptoms: everything powers up, I can hear the fuel pump, turn the key and zero happens. Doesn't even try to turn over. No noise, so sound, just nothing. I don't have much experience with "BMW" type of electronics and I am hoping some of you veteran BMW drivers have some idea of what it could be. I'm thinking it could be the neutral safety switch that's toast or perhaps the key lost the code/programming. How do I check the programming on the key? One problem at a time, I want to get this thing started before I even think about spending time/money on the clutch. Any insights would be of great help! |
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If it were the key i would have thought nothing would work ie no power, no fuel pump etc If you want to check the programming on the key, check this guy. He's really good. Located in Scarborough. http://www.ensunlocks.com |
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Tried starting again today and still nothing. I did notice that a) the windows don't go down a crack when the door is opened & b) when the key is in the ignition the car chimes like normal. The doors lock/unlock fine too. |
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Battery probably. Try boosting it. |
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Originally Posted By: I like to kiss my own curry butt Battery probably. Try boosting it. ^this. it'll need to be driven a good distance too in order to hold a charge else it'll just die again after you park it. if batt can't hold then time for new batt. if there is any immobi issue you'll have to go to a dealer to get it reprogrammed to the VIN. |
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Originally Posted By: SuPeR-MaRiO If it were the key i would have thought nothing would work ie no power, no fuel pump etc If you want to check the programming on the key, check this guy. He's really good. Located in Scarborough. http://www.ensunlocks.com bah woman dropped her key at night and it broke apart and the inside buttons and chip went flying so we couldn't find it. thought this guy might be cheaper but was same price as honda w/parts discount ($160). |
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I've never heard of any mini/bmw losing its sync with the key. Unless battery is dead in the key and its a non-removable battery type fob. But reading about your other issues, could also be main battery. |
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The key is defi a non-removable battery. I only have one key. They key fob will lock and unlock the doors fine, as I said, it will also make the car chime if I place the fob next to the barrel. If the main battery is dead, wouldn't I get some kind of click sound when trying to start? I gave the battery a charge, and I had it on a trickle charger all winter so I don't see why its dead. Its not the original battery but it is the same battery that came with the car when I bought it so I have no idea how old it is. Can batteries be returned lol? If I buy one, put it in and its the same shit I don't want to keep it for nothing. Walmart/Costco maybe?? |
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What kind of trickle charger were you using? A smart one or a dumb one that just keeps charging? If it was a dumb one, you’re battery is probably toast from being dried up by the constant charging. This isn’t a ‘99 civic you’re dealing with. If not enough juice the computer won’t activate high load items. |
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It's a motomaster from Canadian Tire. It is an intelligent trickle charger though. It senses when the battery is full and stops charging. All winter it showed the battery as fully charged. It could be defective though. First year it worked fine. I'm going to test the starter and see if it's getting power this weekend. Pulling the starter out is a fairly big job. It does seem to be a power issue the more I think of it. Anybody know what would happen if the immobilizer was fubared? Would it at least crank over? |
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Did you at least boost the car from your DD?? |
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If the key lost programming the car won’t even turn on the accessories. Try boosting the car first. |
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Also here to say try boosting... we had MINIs die in the showroom all the time.. wouldn't turn over at all, but all electronics would still come on... window wouldn't drop when the door was opened. Sounds like your situation. |
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You just need a boost man. No wall charger, actual booster cables. |
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I've hooked the car up to a full blown battery charger and charged the battery for 15-20mins and tried starting, same thing. I didn't try starting the car with the battery charger still connected but I'll try that next. Unless the battery is so toast it won't hold much of a charge at all. |
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Try a boost. |
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Dude BOOST the damn car. |
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Originally Posted By: I like to kiss my own curry butt Battery probably. Try boosting it. Originally Posted By: Hatorade This isn’t a ‘99 civic you’re dealing with. If not enough juice the computer won’t activate high load items. Originally Posted By: c2k Did you at least boost the car from your DD?? Originally Posted By: Hatorade If the key lost programming the car won’t even turn on the accessories. Try boosting the car first. Originally Posted By: markw Also here to say try boosting... we had MINIs die in the showroom all the time.. wouldn't turn over at all, but all electronics would still come on... window wouldn't drop when the door was opened. Sounds like your situation. Originally Posted By: Wildout You just need a boost man. No wall charger, actual booster cables. Originally Posted By: markw Try a boost. Originally Posted By: Hatorade Dude BOOST the damn car. |
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Originally Posted By: phoenixrage Originally Posted By: I like to kiss my own curry butt Battery probably. Try boosting it. Originally Posted By: Hatorade This isn’t a ‘99 civic you’re dealing with. If not enough juice the computer won’t activate high load items. Originally Posted By: c2k Did you at least boost the car from your DD?? Originally Posted By: Hatorade If the key lost programming the car won’t even turn on the accessories. Try boosting the car first. Originally Posted By: markw Also here to say try boosting... we had MINIs die in the showroom all the time.. wouldn't turn over at all, but all electronics would still come on... window wouldn't drop when the door was opened. Sounds like your situation. Originally Posted By: Wildout You just need a boost man. No wall charger, actual booster cables. Originally Posted By: markw Try a boost. Originally Posted By: Hatorade Dude BOOST the damn car. So... What you are saying is - he needs to get a brand new battery from the dealer? |
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When people are this dumb I don't even feel sorry Maybe you should try a bigger charger, nah, 2 chargers at the same time while pushing the car down a hill. Fuck man |
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Originally Posted By: hyper-s2k Originally Posted By: phoenixrage Originally Posted By: I like to kiss my own curry butt Battery probably. Try boosting it. Originally Posted By: Hatorade This isn’t a ‘99 civic you’re dealing with. If not enough juice the computer won’t activate high load items. Originally Posted By: c2k Did you at least boost the car from your DD?? Originally Posted By: Hatorade If the key lost programming the car won’t even turn on the accessories. Try boosting the car first. Originally Posted By: markw Also here to say try boosting... we had MINIs die in the showroom all the time.. wouldn't turn over at all, but all electronics would still come on... window wouldn't drop when the door was opened. Sounds like your situation. Originally Posted By: Wildout You just need a boost man. No wall charger, actual booster cables. Originally Posted By: markw Try a boost. Originally Posted By: Hatorade Dude BOOST the damn car. So... What you are saying is - he needs to get a brand new battery from the dealer? Nope. He’s saying use a charger XD |
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So are you still charging the battery? |
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Boosted from the Suzuki and still nothing. Battery reads 12v,and load tested fine. Pulled it and connected to the Suzuki and it started no problem. After charging the battery the windows now work as normal. Did some digging in the engine bay and looks like the power connector from the starter to the solenoid is corroded beyond repair. Tried to clean it but there isn't much left of it. Gonna pull the starter tmr for closer inspection. |
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GNSP |
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Burn it |
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seee you over charged your battery and caused your starter connection to dissolve.....wtf were you thinking? |
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i blame corona disharge |
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Minis, what a fucking heap. |
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Originally Posted By: Hatorade Burn it Pretty sure that would happen spontaneous eventually. Geez hold old is your mini? |
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I think 1st gen non Crapper S..... |
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Originally Posted By: hyper-s2k Originally Posted By: Hatorade Burn it Pretty sure that would happen spontaneous eventually. Geez hold old is your mini? LOL These first gen. minis are a joke when it comes to reliability. |
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Originally Posted By: Hatorade Originally Posted By: hyper-s2k Originally Posted By: Hatorade Burn it Pretty sure that would happen spontaneous eventually. Geez hold old is your mini? LOL These first gen. minis are a joke when it comes to reliability. Yup, I knew that going in, I don't care. It's an 05 Cooper S.... It's got some age but not my DD so it doesn't matter. Mine is one of the few without rust. Probs cuz it hasn't been driven much lol. Hate all you want, this is the internet after all..... |
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rarely see the starter ground cable go.. but it does happen. on BMW's its mostly the body-exhaust ground wires that rust out first. or engine to engine mount/chassis... |
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??? I thought the first gen was one of the best minis for reliability. They have electronic throttle body failures (lol), but mostly, mechnically they are alright. Much better than 2nd gen, which oil starves and in fact burns oil like crazy, but there is no dip stick...so you can't tell how much has been consumed. And IIRC, the oil light isn't idiot proof - so it doesn't show low oil warnings until it is too late. Plus...that s/c. It would be a fun as hell second car. |
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Why don’t you bump start it btw? a starter is just a convenience XD |
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Originally Posted By: 4age ??? I thought the first gen was one of the best minis for reliability. They have electronic throttle body failures (lol), but mostly, mechnically they are alright. Much better than 2nd gen, which oil starves and in fact burns oil like crazy, but there is no dip stick...so you can't tell how much has been consumed. And IIRC, the oil light isn't idiot proof - so it doesn't show low oil warnings until it is too late. Plus...that s/c. It would be a fun as hell second car. Are you nuts? I'm positive the first gens. were the absolute worse. Since the second gen. they have been built by Magna and seem to be 'better'. |
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Pretty sure not nuts. I looked at minis as second car 😂 |
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What haven’t you looked at? L O L |
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Originally Posted By: phoenixrage rarely see the starter ground cable go.. but it does happen. on BMW's its mostly the body-exhaust ground wires that rust out first. or engine to engine mount/chassis... I'll try and snap a pic of the corroded wire in taking about. But I'm fairly certain the car is grounding fine. The ground wire in the engine bay isn't even remotely corroded. Whereas the starter wire looks really bad. And the starter is definitely getting power cuz it sparked on me when I was checking continuity. I might need a power steering pump fan from you Ed. Mine seems pretty seized atm but I might take it apart and see if I can free it up. I'm more concerned with getting it started first. Originally Posted By: 4age Why don’t you bump start it btw? a starter is just a convenience XD I was worried that if it didn't start then I'd be up shits creek at the bottom of a hill with no way to get it back in the garage lol. I have thought about bump starting tho. It's not the fastest car in the world but that go kart like feel is hella fun. Plus low end torque is something I haven't known in a long time. Last bunch of cars were all NA 4 bangers |
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For anyone interested, some pics. I put the car up a couple of weeks ago and started the tear down Wheels off and ready to work: This is what the starter looked like when I took it out. No wonder it didn't start the jump wire to the solenoid is totally disconected: Then a quick test drive to home depot: It wasn't shifting properly when I last drove it last year, I thought it was the clutch but turns out it was only a really gummed up shifter linkage. Some wd40 and compressed air cleared it out and it's fine now. Need to find a long term solution because wd40 doesn't really last long. Lithium grease should work. But i'll get to that after a pulley upgrade I have planned in a few weeks. I missed driving it, bottom end torque is wonderful. Such a fun car to drive. Hate all you want, I love it. |
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WD40 is NOT a lubricant... |
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dude if you like the car then that's all that matters. just like miatas |
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that lift you have - it looks interesting. care to provide details of it? |
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Originally Posted By: c2k that lift you have - it looks interesting. care to provide details of it? It's called QuickJack. Funny thing about this is I was going to buy one direct from the company. Then I found that Costco was selling it, and way cheaper than if I bought it direct. https://m.costco.ca/Quickjack-BL-5000SLX....100401764.html ^ that's the one. I love it. Obviously you're still using a creeper but it's safer and easier than a jack and stands. For reference I bought mine in store for $1199.00. The price went up a bit from when I bought it. Was $1299 online when I bought...which was first week of April. I believe QuickJack is owned by Bendpak now. I put the jack stand under it just because. Was my first time using it so for added safety I put the stand. It has safety locks already tho but can never be too safe. |
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Thanks for the detailed write-up. |