#3047026 - 09/23/08 11:31 PM
to M3 or not to M3
|
EclipseGT
Jr Member
Registered: 09/07/01
Posts: 580
Loc: Lenexa, KS
|
I found an immaculate, 1998 silver, 5speed, BMW e36 M3 sedan for sale locally, 100k miles.
The Lowdown - perfect condition, all options, original owner (he bought it when he was 50, now he is over 60 and is wife is making him get a big boy car, a new 5 series), full service records (from Baron and my indy shop). The car comes with a fresh brake job upgraded front and rear pads and rotors. Complete set of second OEM wheels with new snow tires included. Baron did the 50k service so it’s due for the 100k. He said other than gas, brakes, and basic maintenance he has never had a problem with it.
I have only seen pics and spoke to the owner on the phone for some time today, going to check it out tomorrow, may go out for milk
He wants $12K, KBB and Edmunds came back around 10k private party in Good condition. I will feel him out tomorrow. Maybe take $10,000 in cash with me and watch him try to say no to a pretty, bright green stack of benjamins.
From talking about the e36 M3’s with the owner and from what I have read these seem to be fairly reliable machines. Am I crazy? I guess reliable is a relative term coming from a BMW driver.
If the price is right should I hit it?
I would probably sell the e39 540iA Sport, my wife and I do not need nor do we have the space for 3 cars, a truck, and a bike. Gas mileage is pretty bad, 13 city – mid twenties hwy, 17 mpg mixed. If I keep it I can see $3000 for cats and possibly a new auto tranny soon. (I beat the fuck out of it, any lesser of a auto would have been toast a long time ago, she’s been good to me)
Should I say fuck and have 2 garage queens, both silver?
Should I say fuck them both and go by a Honda?
My wife is no help, she just says if I want something than to go buy. Its gotten me into trouble before, mainly in the form of buyers remorse.
_________________________
98 e36 M3/4/5 VF Supercharger 06 Porsche Cayenne S 06 Mercedes C280
|
Top
|
|
|
|
#3047310 - 09/24/08 01:36 AM
Re: to M3 or not to M3
[Re: ]
|
EclipseGT
Jr Member
Registered: 09/07/01
Posts: 580
Loc: Lenexa, KS
|
10 is my bottom $, I might give a few hundred more for the exra OEM wheels with snow tires. KBB and edmunds both say 10 is even on the high side.
_________________________
98 e36 M3/4/5 VF Supercharger 06 Porsche Cayenne S 06 Mercedes C280
|
Top
|
|
|
|
#3047936 - 09/24/08 09:54 AM
Re: to M3 or not to M3
[Re: ]
|
PurduinaSi
Post Master Sr
Registered: 04/16/04
Posts: 7857
Loc: Westchester, NY
|
Sure thing:
"First off, don’t even look at 95’s. They’re crap. I could list all the reasons why, but that would make this email twice as long. BMW US division brought the 95’s over in a hurry, and just threw the OBD1 3.0L S50 in there since they knew the next year they'd have to switch to OBD2 either way. In 96 they brought over the OBD2 3.2L motor, which is much stronger and has a bit more torque and was more refined; more on that in a minute.
I’d look for 96-99, but the later the better. There were a ton of things added on as the years went on – rear headrests, side airbags, center arm rest, nicer steering wheel, nicer wheels, 18 button OBC, etc etc. Full list broken down can be found at http://www.bmwmregistry.com/model_faq.php?id=15 (actually, I suggest reading that entire page, as it is very informative and should answer many of your questions). I’ve got a 98.5 and couldn’t be happier.
If I were to do it over, I’d find a well maintained car from an informed seller on one of the forums rather than a bone stock one. I got mine from an older doctor, and although I know it was pampered, there was a good amount of maintenance items that are discussed on the forums that he had overlooked. I’ll give you the run down on most of them.
Main problem areas:
Cooling system: Plain and simple, its crap. Luckily it’s also small and easy to fix, as well as cheap. Some will say that the 95’s had the plastic impellers, but in reality, any year water pump will fail eventually before 75k miles. Other problem areas in the cooling system are the radiator end tanks, the thermostat housing, and the mechanical fan clutch. Luckily, you can get an upgraded cooling system for under $300.
Rear shock mounts: They fail every 30k miles (stockers) and if not replaced, can tear out the rear shock tower. They have aftermarket ones that last 150k+ though and are relatively cheap.
Suspension bushings: Being that the cars are 10+ years old now, the stock rubber bushings are all going to fail on most of them. Refreshing them is pretty inexpensive, but just labor intensive. If you can do the work yourself, you’ll be fine. I went urethane all around, which is much easier to install, and when done correctly (lubed), can’t be distinguished from stock.
Clutch delay valve: Slows shifting down and is a nuisance. Free to remove, 10 minute job.
Oil pan nut: Not a huge problem, but worth mentioning. On maybe 5% of the cars at most, the oil pan nut wasn’t tightened enough. It would back off, causing a loss in oil pressure and if not caught in time, a seized engine. Most people don’t worry about it, and just pray they catch the oil light if it ever happens, but me and some other guys pulled the oil pan just to be sure, and welded/safety wired the nut. Good time to install a baffle while you’re in there. If you can find a car that has already had this taken care of, that’s awesome.
Stock s52 manifold: The 95 engine was the s50, and the 96-99 is the s52. This represents the size – 3.0 and 3.2 (respectively). The s52 is much torquier, but kind of dies down towards the top end. An easy solution to make some extra power is to add on the intake manifold from the s50 motor. The manifolds can be had for $100, and the adapter kits are like $150-200. The power band shifts up, and I noticed about a 15-20 whp gain. Not a problem area, but just something you might want to know.
Differential Bolt: On cars that have been beaten on, make a good amount of power, or are launched hard, there have been times where the front diff bolt snapped. There’s few kits out there that will reinforce it, or you can just put a new bolt in there, but unless you’re launching it hard at the track its not something to really worry about.
As far as other things… Insurance isn’t that bad at all, cheaper than my Civic Si. Gas mileage is pretty good – 19 mpg if I beat on it, 23 if I’m nice around the city, and 29- 31 on the highway. It does take premium though. Stay away from salvaged title cars, check the VIN’s on any car you look at (M3's VIN's start with WBS). They’re kinda rare to find in really good shape so you might have to open your search ranges and travel to buy one. I got lucky with mine…"
Hope this helps...
_________________________
|
Top
|
|
|
|
#3048472 - 09/24/08 12:16 PM
Re: to M3 or not to M3
[Re: orangegrey]
|
LNXGUY
Post Master Supreme
Registered: 08/06/00
Posts: 107038
Loc: Barrie, Ont,
|
Seems that a lot of people need milk.. GET TO IT MOTHERFUCKERS!!!!!
_________________________
-Bill The GN would OWN you, your children and your children's children. '09 E90 335 d
|
Top
|
|
|
|
#3048802 - 09/24/08 01:22 PM
Re: to M3 or not to M3
[Re: meltdown]
|
EclipseGT
Jr Member
Registered: 09/07/01
Posts: 580
Loc: Lenexa, KS
|
Thanks for the input. I am getting the cash out of the bank (10K) and going to meet him this evening. I am also going to call the indy shop we both use to see what he has had done and what it needs. Once I replace the fucking ABS module in the 540i that bitch is going up for sale. I love that car but Im scared to drive it anymore. I had the SES light come on last week and almost took a chainsaw to it, thank god it was bc the gas cap was loose.
_________________________
98 e36 M3/4/5 VF Supercharger 06 Porsche Cayenne S 06 Mercedes C280
|
Top
|
|
|
|
#3049159 - 09/24/08 02:54 PM
Re: to M3 or not to M3
[Re: meltdown]
|
PurduinaSi
Post Master Sr
Registered: 04/16/04
Posts: 7857
Loc: Westchester, NY
|
LOL at wanting $12k for that car. Did he just pull that price out of his stupid fucking ass?
Are you serious? Thats the going rate for them right now.
Fuck what any NADA or KBB says, the going rate for a clean stock unmolested low mileage is higher than what any of those will say. Most of the rare ones (non sunroof + cloth interior, or individual packages, or M3/4/5's, etc) with low mileage will go for $17k+.
If the car is all up on maintenance, and is in good condition, $12k is a fair asking price. Most M3/4's came in auto's, and to find one with a 5 spd is rare. The reason these cars are going for so much is because theres a market for them now that they're so cheap, and the good ones are far and few between, so people don't mind spending $12-15k for a nice example after months of looking.
If you can get the car for $10k, you're getting a killer deal. That car is done depreciating, and should hold its value for a while now.
_________________________
|
Top
|
|
|
|
#3049774 - 09/24/08 05:46 PM
Re: to M3 or not to M3
[Re: ]
|
EclipseGT
Jr Member
Registered: 09/07/01
Posts: 580
Loc: Lenexa, KS
|
I called the owner of the BMW shop and all it needs is the inspection II which I should be able to do most of it myself, he said it has some minor movement in one of the sway bar end-links which is any easy cheap repair, one of the rear shocks will need to be replaced at some point in the near future, its almost due for new rear shock mounts since its been 30k miles since they were last done. Other than that he said the car is perfect and has been meticulously maintaned and taken care of by the owner.
It has been garaged since new, never seen much rain or snow. 100K is less than 10k per year, not bad.
I also asked what a transmisson and cats would cost for the 540i if they go and was quoted $9k+. Ouch!
I pulled 11K out of the bank, if it looks as good in person hopefully I will pick it up tonight. Just hope I can get rid of the 540i at a decent price ASAP. I have no where to park 4 cars, I already rent a storage garage to keep the 540i for the winter.
_________________________
98 e36 M3/4/5 VF Supercharger 06 Porsche Cayenne S 06 Mercedes C280
|
Top
|
|
|
|
#3049947 - 09/24/08 07:09 PM
Re: to M3 or not to M3
[Re: PurduinaSi]
|
cstang68
Jr Member
Registered: 12/14/04
Posts: 450
Loc: SD CA
|
Sure thing: "First off, don’t even look at 95’s. They’re crap. I could list all the reasons why, but that would make this email twice as long. BMW US division brought the 95’s over in a hurry, and just threw the OBD1 3.0L S50 in there since they knew the next year they'd have to switch to OBD2 either way. In 96 they brought over the OBD2 3.2L motor, which is much stronger and has a bit more torque and was more refined; more on that in a minute. I’d look for 96-99, but the later the better. There were a ton of things added on as the years went on – rear headrests, side airbags, center arm rest, nicer steering wheel, nicer wheels, 18 button OBC, etc etc. Full list broken down can be found at http://www.bmwmregistry.com/model_faq.php?id=15 (actually, I suggest reading that entire page, as it is very informative and should answer many of your questions). I’ve got a 98.5 and couldn’t be happier. If I were to do it over, I’d find a well maintained car from an informed seller on one of the forums rather than a bone stock one. I got mine from an older doctor, and although I know it was pampered, there was a good amount of maintenance items that are discussed on the forums that he had overlooked. I’ll give you the run down on most of them. Main problem areas: Cooling system: Plain and simple, its crap. Luckily it’s also small and easy to fix, as well as cheap. Some will say that the 95’s had the plastic impellers, but in reality, any year water pump will fail eventually before 75k miles. Other problem areas in the cooling system are the radiator end tanks, the thermostat housing, and the mechanical fan clutch. Luckily, you can get an upgraded cooling system for under $300. Rear shock mounts: They fail every 30k miles (stockers) and if not replaced, can tear out the rear shock tower. They have aftermarket ones that last 150k+ though and are relatively cheap. Suspension bushings: Being that the cars are 10+ years old now, the stock rubber bushings are all going to fail on most of them. Refreshing them is pretty inexpensive, but just labor intensive. If you can do the work yourself, you’ll be fine. I went urethane all around, which is much easier to install, and when done correctly (lubed), can’t be distinguished from stock. Clutch delay valve: Slows shifting down and is a nuisance. Free to remove, 10 minute job. Oil pan nut: Not a huge problem, but worth mentioning. On maybe 5% of the cars at most, the oil pan nut wasn’t tightened enough. It would back off, causing a loss in oil pressure and if not caught in time, a seized engine. Most people don’t worry about it, and just pray they catch the oil light if it ever happens, but me and some other guys pulled the oil pan just to be sure, and welded/safety wired the nut. Good time to install a baffle while you’re in there. If you can find a car that has already had this taken care of, that’s awesome. Stock s52 manifold: The 95 engine was the s50, and the 96-99 is the s52. This represents the size – 3.0 and 3.2 (respectively). The s52 is much torquier, but kind of dies down towards the top end. An easy solution to make some extra power is to add on the intake manifold from the s50 motor. The manifolds can be had for $100, and the adapter kits are like $150-200. The power band shifts up, and I noticed about a 15-20 whp gain. Not a problem area, but just something you might want to know. Differential Bolt: On cars that have been beaten on, make a good amount of power, or are launched hard, there have been times where the front diff bolt snapped. There’s few kits out there that will reinforce it, or you can just put a new bolt in there, but unless you’re launching it hard at the track its not something to really worry about. As far as other things… Insurance isn’t that bad at all, cheaper than my Civic Si. Gas mileage is pretty good – 19 mpg if I beat on it, 23 if I’m nice around the city, and 29- 31 on the highway. It does take premium though. Stay away from salvaged title cars, check the VIN’s on any car you look at (M3's VIN's start with WBS). They’re kinda rare to find in really good shape so you might have to open your search ranges and travel to buy one. I got lucky with mine…" Hope this helps...
All the OBD1 hate...it's pathetic. The cars are nearly identical in all ways. The 95's have less smog crap and are a bit lighter. The ride is also a bit more harsh on the 95's, I've owned both and sold the 97 to keep the 95.
Edited by cstang68 (09/24/08 07:27 PM)
|
Top
|
|
|
|
#3050300 - 09/24/08 09:11 PM
Re: to M3 or not to M3
[Re: cstang68]
|
PurduinaSi
Post Master Sr
Registered: 04/16/04
Posts: 7857
Loc: Westchester, NY
|
All the OBD1 hate...it's pathetic. The cars are nearly identical in all ways. The 95's have less smog crap and are a bit lighter. The ride is also a bit more harsh on the 95's, I've owned both and sold the 97 to keep the 95.
Not hating on OBD1, but the car itself. If you know anything about e36's you'd agree.
-First model year of sorting issues out -2 or 3 of the colors in 95 were single stage paints with no clear coat -s50 is a much less powerful motor than the s52 (proven many times) -OBD1 no longer has any tuning advantages over OBD2 -Valve retainers on s50's were weak -Primitive HVAC -Subframes didn't have the reinforcements in 95 (as well as parts of the body IIRC) -Less sound deadening -Different suspension setup (offset bushings instead of offset arms, etc) -Crappy wheels (DSI's) with only 235's in the rear -No headrests, digital climate control, center arm rest, side air bags -Lesser quality leather was used -Longer gearing (3.15 vs 3.23) -All rubber parts (bushings, trim, etc) are a good 3-4 years older -Ugly exterior parts, such as the body color matched front mesh grill, the larger kidney grills, the larger more obtrusive sidemarkers, etc etc
Etc etc etc.
If you can name ONE advantage that 95's have over 96's, I'll take back everything I just said. And don't mention tuning, because thats crap now with all the OBD2 tuning solutions.
_________________________
|
Top
|
|
|
|
#3050343 - 09/24/08 09:30 PM
Re: to M3 or not to M3
[Re: PurduinaSi]
|
cstang68
Jr Member
Registered: 12/14/04
Posts: 450
Loc: SD CA
|
All the OBD1 hate...it's pathetic. The cars are nearly identical in all ways. The 95's have less smog crap and are a bit lighter. The ride is also a bit more harsh on the 95's, I've owned both and sold the 97 to keep the 95.
Not hating on OBD1, but the car itself. If you know anything about e36's you'd agree. -First model year of sorting issues out -2 or 3 of the colors in 95 were single stage paints with no clear coat -s50 is a much less powerful motor than the s52 (proven many times) -OBD1 no longer has any tuning advantages over OBD2 -Valve retainers on s50's were bad -Primitive HVAC -Subframes didn't have the reinforcements -Different suspension setup (offset bushings instead of offset arms) -Crappy wheels (DSI's) with only 235's in the rear -No headrests, digital climate control, center arm rest, side air bags -Lesser quality leather was used -Longer gearing (3.15 vs 3.23) -All rubber parts (bushings, trim, etc) are a good 3-4 years older Etc etc etc. If you can name ONE advantage that 95's have over 96's, I'll take back everything I just said. And don't mention tuning, because thats crap now with all the OBD2 tuning solutions.
Ok so to refute a few of your negatives. I prefer the "primative" HVAC system to the problematic digital system of the newer years. They fail often and are $$$.
The only single stage paint was Dakar yellow.
Power output is nearly identical with the s50 making more peak power up top (stock or with cams) and the s52 having more peak torque.
The 1995 subframes DID infact have the reinforcements. (I've replaced the subframe bushings on 3 95's and my 97).
Offset bushings provide a better road feel than that of the offset arms (i've owned both the 95's have better steering feel/response).
"Crappy wheels" which are lighter than DSII's and don't promote understeer with offset tire widths.
The center arm rest was an option on all years (my buddies 11/94 build came with a center arm rest).
No headrests in the rear for better rearview viewing (who carries people back there, it's tiny). More added weight.
Side airbags only came around in 98 and all airbags in an e36 are probably suspect being 10 years old (or more). More added weight.
The leather across all years is nappa leather.
If people want better gearing they go with the 3.38 diff from the automatic cars. I believe that the only reason they changed the ratio for the 96+ cars was to keep the performance on par with the 95's as to avoid the embarrassment of the newer car being slower than the older one.
Mileage and driving style have more to do with bushing wear than age, plus 95 to 99 is only a 4 year max age difference.
I know a lot more than most about the e36 m3's. I think you should do a little more homework (or actual work on a car?) I've done all repairs on my own and done many modifications (valves/cams/suspension/clutch/vanos overhaul ect...) and I've owned both a 95 and a 97.
Benefits of the 95:
-faster steering rack -no clutch delay valve -better road feel -less smog equipment -less weight -No digital climate control -No traction control -Hand pulls are same color as the door on the dove cars (just think that dark grey pulls look out of place)
The 1 disadvantage are the valve retainers which only happen to a very small percentage of the cars. Small enough that BMW didn't do anything about it and I don't know anybody who's had it happen including all the 95's in the BMWCCA chapter in san diego. I think it's safe to say that if the 95 is still going now (100k+ miles) the retainers are fine.
I don't think that there is enough differences between the two to say that 1 is superior to the other, they are equal. And if you want to track it, stick with the 95. =]
Edited by cstang68 (09/24/08 09:37 PM)
|
Top
|
|
|
|
#3051946 - 09/25/08 12:12 PM
Re: to M3 or not to M3
[Re: cstang68]
|
PurduinaSi
Post Master Sr
Registered: 04/16/04
Posts: 7857
Loc: Westchester, NY
|
Not sure how I missed your reply last night....
Ok so to refute a few of your negatives. I prefer the "primative" HVAC system to the problematic digital system of the newer years. They fail often and are $$$.
The "failing climate controls" are fixed by soldering a single resistor on the board. It is a free fix that almost everyone knows about. $$? I think not....
The only single stage paint was Dakar yellow.
Wrong, Mugello red and some Hellrots were also single stage.
Power output is nearly identical with the s50 making more peak power up top (stock or with cams) and the s52 having more peak torque.
Look at dyno numbers and quarter mile times, not the "power outputs" that BMW claimed. Stock, I beat countless s50's that had bolt ons. One buddy had every bolt on in the book on his s50, and I walked him hard. He got fed up and swapped in an s52 and he now walks me.
100% bone stock, I put down 221 whp and 229 wtq. I also ran a 13.9 @ 100 bone stock and 13.6 @ 102 with just an m50 mani. Find me s50's that do that :roll:
The 1995 subframes DID infact have the reinforcements. (I've replaced the subframe bushings on 3 95's and my 97).
Then why would they sell reinforcement kits for 95's only; the same ones that come stock on 96-99s? I personally have seen the reinforcements on my car and helped 2 buddies install them on their 95's.
There is a possibility that the latest made 95's had them, but the 95 production started in early 94 and continued to late 95, so theres probably far more 95's without reinforcements than with.
Offset bushings provide a better road feel than that of the offset arms (i've owned both the 95's have better steering feel/response).
That's just crap. There's no truth in that statement.
"Crappy wheels" which are lighter than DSII's and don't promote understeer with offset tire widths.
Contours are lighter than DS1's and much better looking.
The center arm rest was an option on all years (my buddies 11/94 build came with a center arm rest).
Never seen that beside retrofits. Every 95 I've seen had the completely different console with no place for the armrest, unless you upgrade to the 96+ consoles.
No headrests in the rear for better rearview viewing (who carries people back there, it's tiny). More added weight.
Added weight? Visibility? Now you're just reaching. I've never had any visibility problems because of them, and they combined weigh approx 3 lbs
Side airbags only came around in 98 and all airbags in an e36 are probably suspect being 10 years old (or more). More added weight.
So no airbags > old airbags? And airbags are bad because of added weight?
Might as well just pull your front airbags out. They're 10 years old and are heavy
The leather across all years is nappa leather.
First of all, thats wrong since some of the later models came with buffalo leather. Secondly, its been shown on many occasions that the leather in 95's were of different quality and more prone to wear.
If people want better gearing they go with the 3.38 diff from the automatic cars. I believe that the only reason they changed the ratio for the 96+ cars was to keep the performance on par with the 95's as to avoid the embarrassment of the newer car being slower than the older one.
That's the most bullshit I've ever heard. First of all, 95's are slower in all aspects. Secondly, they put the differential in as an UPGRADE. Hence further proving why 96+'s are better. According to you, if you get a 95, plan on spending an additional $500 just to upgrade the diff.
Mileage and driving style have more to do with bushing wear than age, plus 95 to 99 is only a 4 year max age difference.
4 years is a long time for rubber to fail. I'd rather have bushings from a 99 with 100k miles than a 95 with 100k miles (given identical driving styles).
I know a lot more than most about the e36 m3's. I think you should do a little more homework (or actual work on a car?) I've done all repairs on my own and done many modifications (valves/cams/suspension/clutch/vanos overhaul ect...) and I've owned both a 95 and a 97.
Are you serious here? I've done all the work on my car myself, from a complete and full suspension overhaul, to an engine rebuild on 3 different M3's. I've done a euro swap and countless s52 swaps, and rebuilt a few shells with parts from a totaled M3. I've rebuilt 3 vanos units, and installed cams on an s52. To say I don't have e36 knowledge is just silly.
Benefits of the 95:
-faster steering rack -no clutch delay valve -better road feel -less smog equipment -less weight -No digital climate control -No traction control -Hand pulls are same color as the door on the dove cars (just think that dark grey pulls look out of place)
Faster steering rack is the only thing I agree with here. Traction control is turned off with a button, how is that a con? Digital climate control with dual climate zones and one touch defrost is much nicer than the other units, not to mention more appeasing to the eye. The CDV is easily removed with a box wrench and 5 minutes of time. Most are removed by now anyway.
The 1 disadvantage are the valve retainers which only happen to a very small percentage of the cars. Small enough that BMW didn't do anything about it and I don't know anybody who's had it happen including all the 95's in the BMWCCA chapter in san diego. I think it's safe to say that if the 95 is still going now (100k+ miles) the retainers are fine.
I don't think that there is enough differences between the two to say that 1 is superior to the other, they are equal. And if you want to track it, stick with the 95. =]
I think the argument can be compared to that of the AP1 vs AP2 for S2k's. AP1 owners use the whole "better road feel and higher powerband" excuse, but anyone who's driven an AP2 knows that its far more refined, better looking, and faster (no replacement for displacement). Believe what you may, but S52's are much faster than s50's.
Just my $.02
_________________________
|
Top
|
|
|
|
#3052277 - 09/25/08 01:29 PM
Re: to M3 or not to M3
[Re: PurduinaSi]
|
meltdown
Post Master Supreme
Registered: 01/30/03
Posts: 25422
Loc: Kansas
|
LOL at wanting $12k for that car. Did he just pull that price out of his stupid fucking ass? Are you serious? Thats the going rate for them right now. Fuck what any NADA or KBB says, the going rate for a clean stock unmolested low mileage is higher than what any of those will say. Most of the rare ones (non sunroof + cloth interior, or individual packages, or M3/4/5's, etc) with low mileage will go for $17k+. If the car is all up on maintenance, and is in good condition, $12k is a fair asking price. Most M3/4's came in auto's, and to find one with a 5 spd is rare. The reason these cars are going for so much is because theres a market for them now that they're so cheap, and the good ones are far and few between, so people don't mind spending $12-15k for a nice example after months of looking. If you can get the car for $10k, you're getting a killer deal. That car is done depreciating, and should hold its value for a while now.
Dude, it's been driven across the United States 33 times. Do you have any idea the level of maintenence required on a 100k mile, 10 year old German luxury car?
Twelve grand is fucking retarded. Maybe with 60k miles. Maybe.
_________________________
2023 Sonic Blue Kona N 2019 Tonic Yellow Civic Si
|
Top
|
|
|
|
#3053090 - 09/25/08 04:49 PM
Re: to M3 or not to M3
[Re: meltdown]
|
scootergeek
Post Master Supreme
Registered: 07/24/00
Posts: 46248
Loc: East of St. Louis
|
Do you have any idea the level of maintenence required on a 100k mile, 10 year old German luxury car?
It's an E36, not an E38 or E39, 100k is not so big a deal.
cheers, scott
_________________________
Still pissy after all these years...
|
Top
|
|
|
|
#3054415 - 09/25/08 11:58 PM
Re: to M3 or not to M3
[Re: theLoon]
|
cstang68
Jr Member
Registered: 12/14/04
Posts: 450
Loc: SD CA
|
I did forget about Mugello, but hellrot did come with a clearcoat. I know because the 11/94 car is hellrot and the CC is pealing where the fender got keyed.
Contours are the heaviest wheels of the 3 (ds1, ds2, contours).
You are lying about installing the subframe reinforcements on 95 M3's. Maybe you worked on a few 325's. As I stated before all M3's came with the reinforcements (even my buddies 11/94 car).
As i stated before, the road feel/feedback is due to the different LCA's and bushings. I've owned both and spent a lot of time in both.
There is no truth to the leather being of lesser quality. Maybe you're comparing Dove to black interior colors? Dove interiors of all years wear more. My 97's leather feels the same as my 95, but my 95's does have more wear (dove vs black).
The cars are nearly identical.
|
Top
|
|
|
|
#3054451 - 09/26/08 12:12 AM
Re: to M3 or not to M3
[Re: cstang68]
|
PurduinaSi
Post Master Sr
Registered: 04/16/04
Posts: 7857
Loc: Westchester, NY
|
I did forget about Mugello, but hellrot did come with a clearcoat. I know because the 11/94 car is hellrot and the CC is pealing where the fender got keyed.
Like I said, some hellrots. My buddies 95 hellrot was faded to hell and I had to buff it out, and I have a white pad turned red to prove it.
You are lying about installing the subframe reinforcements on 95 M3's. Maybe you worked on a few 325's. As I stated before all M3's came with the reinforcements (even my buddies 11/94 car).
http://www.turnermotorsport.com/html/subcategory_detail.asp?modelcode=E36&subcat_id=92
Then why would Turner Motorsports, one of the most respectable aftermarket companies for E36's, sell a kit to reinforce for EARLY 95's??
Do some research. The really early model 95 M3's did not come with front strut tower reinforcements nor the rear subframe to chassis reinforcements shown there. When I say early, I mean early (maybe even pre 11/94). I'm telling you that I personally installed them in a 95 M3 that didnt have them. I would not lie.
_________________________
|
Top
|
|
|
|
#3054556 - 09/26/08 01:08 AM
Re: to M3 or not to M3
[Re: PurduinaSi]
|
EclipseGT
Jr Member
Registered: 09/07/01
Posts: 580
Loc: Lenexa, KS
|
update - plans feel through on Wed., meeting tomorrow afternoon.
the main concern I have is back seat room, I have 3 year old in a car seat, and it looks really tight. Im 6ft, mostly legs it seems.
Since I got the bug I went and test a couple cars, first was a 2005 G35 6sp 298hp, sport package with 15k miles. Never been a fan of the sedan's but I have never personally piloted one. First thought - very unimpressed, seats were hard and no matter what setting I tried I could not get comfortable, not impressed with the motor, felt like it was going to explode - shift light blinking in my face 4k shy of redline. With a trade I would have walked out paying under 9k.
Next victim was a 06 325i, fully loaded, silver on black, auto, whoever ordered this car went nuts on the option list. I-Drive sucks balls, Im sure I would learn to tolerate it but I would be much happier with a touch screen nav/radio/dic like my Acura had. The Mini has a version of the I-drive, it takes 10 minutes fucking with a tiny knob to enter an address. I could have, 11k with trade.
G35 - numb, boring, ugly RWD Maxima 325i - worst 3 series to date, step back from the e46, my 9 year old e39 had less rattles, better fit/finish, and was much smoother - did GM build this thing?
Still looking forward to the M3 but the more cars I drive the more I like my 540i, now I remember why I bought this money pit, I fucking love it. If I do buy the M3 both are going into storage for weekend drivers.
I would like to drive a 330i ZHP but its not looking good, bitches are rare!
_________________________
98 e36 M3/4/5 VF Supercharger 06 Porsche Cayenne S 06 Mercedes C280
|
Top
|
|
|
|
#3055926 - 09/26/08 12:23 PM
Re: to M3 or not to M3
[Re: Benelliwang]
|
EclipseGT
Jr Member
Registered: 09/07/01
Posts: 580
Loc: Lenexa, KS
|
I am heading out now to look at it. I think some of the door locks and window regulators have been done. 24-25 mpg sounds really nice, my truck does better than the 540i, I get 12-14 in town, 18 in the truck.
_________________________
98 e36 M3/4/5 VF Supercharger 06 Porsche Cayenne S 06 Mercedes C280
|
Top
|
|
|
|
#3055964 - 09/26/08 12:36 PM
Re: to M3 or not to M3
[Re: EclipseGT]
|
progressi
Post Master Sr
Registered: 06/01/01
Posts: 9133
|
Can I hear more from the guy that did the Euro swap?
I want to hear more about the twin screw,too. I remember when the crazy SM E36 tested it out,but never saw or heard about it since?
I would totally swap that 5 series for the E36.
E36 more reliable than an Si! SACRILEDGE!!!!! Facts please! You'll have to explain that,because I told a friend that was thinking of selling his Evo (drives alot and gas is hurting him) for a new bottom of the line econobox to go get an E36 M3 and he was like "Right-old BMW over a Hondota?"
This financial crisis left me in a tough spot for a couple months,I thought about stepping down from the Vette to grab some loot and save on these retarded gas prices. Its cool now,but I was seriously looking at an E36 and wanted to do an ITB Euro spec mill. It used to be really spendy,has it come down in price?
|
Top
|
|
|
|
#3056501 - 09/26/08 03:24 PM
Re: to M3 or not to M3
[Re: progressi]
|
EclipseGT
Jr Member
Registered: 09/07/01
Posts: 580
Loc: Lenexa, KS
|
Just drove it, it looks like it just rolled off the showroom floor, he still has window sticker. 2 complete sets of wheels and tires, one winter, one summer. Not even a pixel out on the dash or radio. He is not coming off 12k though, there are people lined up to buy it. I only found 1 other 98 5 speed 4 door fs in the country. I told him I would call in a hour. Damn it.
_________________________
98 e36 M3/4/5 VF Supercharger 06 Porsche Cayenne S 06 Mercedes C280
|
Top
|
|
|
|
Moderator: auxilary, Professor Paki
|
|